Day 29: Nuku Hiva, Marquesas Islands … French Polynesia

Friday, 3 February 2017 (Part II)
At Sea — South Pacific Ocean

Stats @ Ship’s Time 10:00p (MIT) … UTC 7:30a (4 February)
Temp: 82.4F (28C)
Position: 8.55.46S / 140.06.03W

A “country that no description could fit the beauty.”
~ Herman Melville … said of Nuku Hiva when he deserted the
whaler Acushnet in the Marquesas to live among the Typee for a while. ~

Our day started at sea.  A gorgeous day — just like the past two days, but the wind was still strong … and still slowing us down.  I didn’t even make it around deck 10 once before I threw in the towel and did my morning walk by going up and down the interior staircases and around the passenger decks.

Captain B's mid-morning announcement dashed our hopes of an early arrival in Nuku Hiva — our first stop in French Polynesia … and the only one in the Marquesas Islands.  But he kept his promise to pick up the pilot at 4:00p.  So not only did we make land today, we actually landed.

Our first glimpse of land since our aborted landing in Kauai five days ago.

Yes, it was dusk when we finally made it ashore.  Yes, it got dark in no time at all.  But we landed, and we got to stretch our legs on something other than a ship in motion.  But first we had to deal with a rather challenging tender ride — or rather, a challenging boarding of a tender boat.  There was considerable chop even in protected Taiohae Bay, which was formed when an ancient volcanic crater collapsed.  Once we were on our way, though, the ride was reasonably smooth.

Once ashore, we bypassed the few tables the locals were setting up to sell their wares.  At the small visitor center, we bid the attendant Bonjour — it wasn’t dark enough to say Bonsoir — and asked for directions to the bank to get some French Pacific Francs from the ATM.  Our new Charles Schwab debit card passed its first international test with flying colors … yay!  The bank was on the way, so no detour was necessary to get our errand done before we set about seeing the sights.

Welcomed ashore by a typical Polynesian sculpture at the visitor center.

An attractive black-sand beach … but these waters have a healthy shark population.

Taiohae, located about .6-mile (1 km) from where the tender dropped us off, is the island’s main town.  Apparently there used to be a US Navy-built fort nearby that was used by Commodore David Porter for raids against merchant ships during the War of 1812, but it’s long gone.  Since time was short, we only had a church, a few tiki sculptures, and some shoreline scenery to see today before night fell.  Oh … and when we took a detour on our way to the church, we got a glimpse of where the islanders live in the hills.  The locals we encountered were quick to help with directions — given in French, but we recognized the words bridge, futbol, and left and right.  Have to admit that for a minute or two I thought we were lost, but one of the islanders showed us the shortcut and in no time we were at the Notre Dame Cathedral.

The original 19th century church — built on land considered sacred by the ancient Marquesans — is no more.  Except, that is, for a wall and two bell towers that serve as the entrance to the new church.  The current structure dates back to 1977.  It is the largest church in the Marquesas Islands and is built from wood and stone — the latter provided by the six inhabited islands of the archipelago.

An impressive entrance to the new church (glimpse of it on the left).

I walked into the partially open-air church, but it was too dark inside to take photos, and since there were a couple of people praying, I didn’t want to to disrupt them with flash photography.  I understand there are stone and wood carvings inside sent here by each of the islands of the Marquesas.  Thanks to shipmate Barry “air dropping” his photos to my iPhone later, I at least got to see some pictures of the pulpit.

A beautifully carved pulpit ... Barry, thanks for sharing.

I did get to enjoy what I think is an outdoor chapel and the carvings in the courtyard — as well as the rosewood-carved statues of Saints Peter and Paul flanking the entrance to the church.  I had read that the carvings of the biblical scenes had been influenced by island culture, and it was interesting to see this for myself … the use of breadfruit tree in lieu of an olive tree … native spears instead of swords … native dress and musical instruments were some of the details I noticed.

Bougainville add color to the outdoor chapel.

St Paul	St Peter	Moses

A cross marks the entrance to the cathedral … if you follow the shoreline to get to it.

By the time we arrived at Temehea Tohua [aka Paepae of Piki Vehine] the light was all but gone.  This is a traditional meeting platform — rebuilt in 1989.  On it stand tiki sculptures by local artists.  I understand there are some contemporary works of art, too.  But it really was too dark to make out details.  I snapped a couple of flash photos before we started the stroll back to the pier for the next tender to the ship.

Insignia from Temehea Tohua ... the Meeting Platform.

We were on the ship by 7:30p — drenched in sweat.  If there was a silver-lining to our late landing it was that we didn’t have to deal with the sun.  And there was a light breeze to cool us down every once in a while.  But it was sweltering in the tender … even though we were sitting near the open entrance of the boat.  Needless to say, a shower was the first thing on my mind when we were back in the cabin.  Mui, who fares better in hot and humid climates, had no such dire need.  So he headed up to the Terrace Café to get a bite to eat.  Then he was off to the Insignia Lounge to stake out a good spot from which to videotape the dance performance by the local troupe that came aboard to entertain us.

Having learned my lesson about sitting up front at such performances where passengers are inevitably pulled onto the stage, I gave the seat Mui had saved for me to Boris, and sat further back with Sonia.  The lounge really is not set up for shows … small ship, small lounge … no room for tiered seating.  Nonetheless, I enjoyed the performance … and will doubtless enjoy watching Mui’s video of it when he finally gets around to processing it.  I do wish I had taken my camera with me as the iPhone was simply not up to the task of getting good close up photos.  I begged a few snapshots from Mui's GoPro to share here.

The officer in the white uniform is the General Manager, Victor …
a good sport and an enthusiastic participant when called upon to perform ;-)

Short — and mostly in the dark — though the landing was, I’m glad we got a chance to take a stroll in Taiohae.  Herman Melville said of Nuku Hiva that it was a “country that no description could fit the beauty.”  Alas, we only caught a very small glimpse of that beauty.  The 4x4 jeep tour we had booked would have given us a more in-depth opportunity to explore the island, but beggars can’t be choosers.

By the way — remember how we lost ½-hour to put us on Marquesas Islands Time.  That was two nights ago.  I was checking the NavChannel this morning and noticed the ship’s time did not reflect that change.  Mui called the front desk to verify there had been no change back the night before.  Nope — no change back.  Turns out that the ship’s clocks cannot be adjusted by ½-hour!!!  I guess I can understand that if the changes are automated … I could not do that either on my laptop or my iPhone.  No matter we will regain that ½-hour tonight.

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