Day 169: Halifax, Nova Scotia … Canada

Saturday, 24 June 2017
At Sea — Atlantic Ocean

Stats @ Ship’s Time 9:40p (ADT) … UTC 00:40a (25 June)
Temp: 52.5F (11.4C)
Position: 43.33.90N / 64.43.82W

The bad news is time flies.  The good news is you’re the pilot.
~ Michael Altshuler ~

Woke up at 6:45a to pea-soup thick fog surrounding the ship on all sides.  The map on the NavChannel showed us off Halifax, but we could not see a thing … not even from the bow camera when I tuned into Channel 4 on the TV.

We went up to the Terrace Café for breakfast — sharing a table with friends.  The ship was docked by the time we returned to the cabin shortly after 8:00a.  We went on the veranda to see what we could see … not much.  But hearing the sound of bagpipes, we rushed to the deck 5 promenade to listen to the lone piper and show our appreciation for the welcome for which Halifax has won awards.  It was just one tune, but it was nice to have a special welcome on such a dreary day.

Ray came on the P/A shortly after 8:30a to announce the ship was cleared.  He also said the weather front that was causing the dull conditions was expected to pass and the skies would clear this afternoon.  His forecast was wrong … at least while we were in Halifax.  Still, we’re grateful the rain held off until we were almost back on the ship at the end of the day.

We dallied as we got ready to explore Halifax.  Might have lazed around all morning, but Ray’s announcement that a scheduled crew drill would briefly close the gangway lit a fire under us.  Leaving the ship around 10:00a, our first stop was the information booth at the Pier 22 cruise terminal.  Having visited Halifax in 1999, we’d already been to Peggy’s Cove — probably the most popular tourist site in the area — so we were looking to do something else today.  I had a digital map of a 4-mile (6km) trek around the city, but it was hard to make out the details.  The woman manning the desk had a paper version of the same map.  She was very helpful, marking it up with gusto and recommending a place for lunch as well.

In 1999, the weather cooperated for our visit to Peggy’s Cove.

The walk was slightly uphill initially, but easily accomplished.  Our first stop was at a National Historic Site of Canada — the Old Burying Ground … not to be confused with the oft-visited Fairview Lawn Cemetery where victims from the Titanic are buried.  The OBG — aka St Paul’s Church Cemetery — was founded in 1749, at the time the settlement was founded.  After it was closed to interments in 1844, the cemetery went into decline until it was restored in the 1890s.  Today, guides conduct tours even as the 18th century grave markers continue to be restored.  The Welford-Parker Monument — a triumphal arch that commemorates British victory in the Crimean War, is the last structure to be erected here.

Leaving the cemetery, we walked the short distance to St Mary’s Cathedral Basilica.  The brochure we picked up described this church, which has been serving the faithful since 1784, as a “legacy of a living faith.”  The construction of the initial church on the site was made possible by the repeal of penal laws that year that forbade Catholic worship and land ownership by the Irish Catholic.  One hundred years after that date, the granite spire of the cathedral that now stands on the site was topped by a cross, making it the highest spire in North America.

Left: Abraham is prepared to offer his son as a sacrifice.
Right: Jonah emerges after remaining three days in the belly of a fish.

Continuing our stroll, we found ourselves in the downtown shopping area.  Colorful buildings housing a variety of stores and interesting murals distracted us along the way.  The ultra-modern Halifax Library stood in stark contrast to most of the buildings lining Spring Garden Road.  When we came to a shopping mall, we went in to see if there was a barber so Mui could get a haircut.  There was … and he did.  While he was getting clipped, I browsed the boutiques … and walked away with a knit linen cardigan … or two ;-)

I totally agree ;-)

created and painted by the students, staff & alumnae of the Sacred Heart School of Halifax.

From the mall, we made our way up to the Public Gardens — beautiful; lush green landscaping; colorful flowers and parterres celebrating Canada’s 150th anniversary; a lazy brook meandering around the grounds; ponds and decorative fountains adding interest.  A very peaceful setting … all the more so because there were very few people around.  The 18-acre property is described as being one of the country’s most attractive Victorian gardens.  It sits on land that was part of the original Common and was designated a garden in 1841 when the city was incorporated.  Back then, strolling in the gardens — to see and be seen — and enjoying the music supplied by military bands was a popular pastime.  There was no band performing in the gazebo bandstand today, but we enjoyed walking the grounds nonetheless.

By the time we left the gardens, it was 1:00p.  We wanted to grab a bite to eat before returning to the ship for the 3:30p all aboard, so we decided to take the short cut through the Citadel.  2017 being the 150th anniversary of Canada, all Parks Canada sites are open to visitors for free this year … which worked out well since we didn’t have enough time to do the Citadel justice.  We stopped just long enough to check out a few of the exhibits … installed to introduce visitors to the life led by the British troops who lived here in 1869 … when Canada was just two years old.  Then we continued out the front gate and walked down the hill, passing the Old Town Clock.

We stopped briefly at an overlook on our way down.  Of interest was the scenery, of course.  But reading the signage, we realized we were looking at a distant view of ground zero for what is simply termed the Halifax Explosion … the largest man-made explosion prior to the first atomic bomb.  We remembered hearing about this back in 1999, but had forgotten the details.  The devastation occurred in December 1917 when two WWI vessels — the Norwegian relief ship Imo and the French Munitions ship Mont Blanc — collided in the harbor.  The Mont Blanc went up in flames and the nearly 3,000 tons of explosives in her hold detonated.  The shockwave flattened a .7 square mile (2 sq km) area … killed more than 1,600 people … wounded some 9,000 … left over 6,000 homeless.

Collage of historic photos of the Halifax Explosion.

The Imo and the Month Blanc collided near the most distant suspension bridge.

Bluenose II — our lunch spot today — was recommended by the volunteer at the cruise ship terminal information kiosk.  It’s a hole-in-the-wall type restaurant frequented mostly by local patrons who know where to find good, inexpensive food.  A couple from the ship was leaving as we arrived.  They said the fish and chips was good, so that’s what we ordered.  It was good, but we’ve had better.

Champlain and De Monts buying furs from Chief Membertou of the Micmacs at the Port
Royal Habitation (c 1605) — mosaic by Richards Tiles Ltd, Stoke-on-Trent, England.

After lunch, we continued our stroll, ending up at the Harbourfront Walk that follows a coastal path.  Most of the kiosks were still closed — not quite the tourist season here yet.  Still, we did find a place to get some ice cream … not the best, but good enough as a sweet treat after walking all morning.  We made a quick stop at the market between Pier 21 — Canada’s answer to Ellis Island — and Pier 22, where Insignia was docked.  Most of the stalls were closed, so we didn’t dally long.

Left: “Emigrant” … The pain of separation he overcame,
with faith and hope his heart aflame …

Right: I guess we know what he’s here to sell!

We were back on the ship just as the rain started sprinkling.  By the time Insignia threw off its lines shortly after 4:00p, the fog was moving in again and the rain was falling consistently.  Glad the day was dry while we were ashore.

We had a few hours to relax and get ready for the last RTW dinner of the voyage … one more sign that the end is near.  I was taking a picture of the invitation for my records when I noticed that there was a pre-dinner show to go along with this special event … and it started at 6:00p.  So, we hustled and got ourselves to the Insignia Lounge in time for the show.

Our table for this RTW dinner put us in the Polo Grill — #17.  Our hostess was Natasha, from Serbia.  She is the Second Purser and is responsible for the ship’s clearance, immigration, etc.  Our table mates were Sonia and Boris, and should have included Bill and Star … but they were ‘stolen’ by a fellow-passenger.  So our table was rounded out by Astrid and Jacob from Sweden.  We’re almost at the end of our six-month voyage and don’t recall running into them before.  We had interesting conversations and a fun evening.

The highlight of the menu was the dark chocolate dessert … described as “An ATW Sweet Finale” … a dark bitter chocolate mousse ball, filled with vanilla ice cream and served with a warm raspberry coulis … probably the best dessert of the entire trip.

Vanilla ice cream filled chocolate bombe … yummm!

We wrapped up dinner and returned to the cabin around 9:00p … to thick fog and rain outside.  The ship’s been ‘dancing’ since we left Halifax … and is expected to continue to do so until the wee hours of the morning.  I guess the Atlantic wants us to know we are at sea.

We gain an hour overnight to put us back on Eastern Daylight Time for our port of call in the US tomorrow … the end is getting near … sniff, sniff.

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