Day 155: Dublin, Ireland

Saturday, 10 June 2017
At Sea — Irish Sea … En Route to Cobh

Stats @ Ship’s Time 8:30p (BST) … UTC 7:30p (10 June)
Temp: 64.2F (17.9C)
Position: 53.19.69N / 6.04.65W

It is good to have an end to journey toward;
but it is the journey that matters in the end.
~ Ursula K. Le Guin ~

We were up at 6:00a to find the veranda wet from overnight rains and Insignia already inside the breakwater on its approach to Dublin, Ireland.  Thirty minutes later the ship was docked in the commercial port — at Berth 30 Ocean Pier if our O port information was accurate.  We were 1½ hours ahead of schedule … and this despite the delay leaving Belfast last night.  It was overcast and cold … and more than a little dreary with some drizzle.  But these conditions would improve as the day wore on.

After a leisurely breakfast, we were ready to leave the ship around 9:00a.  The city center being about 3 miles (5 km) from where we docked, we took the courtesy shuttle — double decker bus — to the drop off point at Merrion Square.  This turned out to be very convenient as a starting point for exploring Dublin.  The HoHo tour bus stop was nearby, too.  Hawkers were promoting the bus tours and handing out maps.  We took a map but passed on the bus ride since we wanted to stretch our legs.  The map served us well for our DIY meander through the city.

We weren’t sure what to expect of Merrion Square Park, so we were delighted to see that it was a garden square — one that the nearby sign described as being Georgian in style.  A quiet stroll seemed like a good way to get our day going.  I later learned that the red brick houses overlooking the square on three sides are Georgian in style … with many of the façades covered with ivy.  The park was delightful … shaded paths, manicured lawns, and colorful flowers.  Quirky statues — such as the one featuring Oscar Wilde sprawled on a boulder — added fun to a relaxing walk.

After circumnavigating the park we left Merrion Square and walked to St Stephens’s Green.  This is a huge public park that dates back to 1664, but the design has evolved over the subsequent years.  It played an important role during the Easter Rising of 1916, and as such, has a special place in Irish history.  There was plenty of green space speckled with pops of brilliant color from the beautiful blooms in the flower beds.  Fountains flowed and statuary placed in strategic locations added interest to our stroll.  There were plenty of people here, but the paths did not feel crowded.

Left: One of the many famine-themed memorials found in Dublin.
This one was sculpted by Edward Delaney.

Right: Designed by Josef Wackerle, this fountain is a gift from the German
Federal Republic for Ireland's help after WWII ... it portrays the three
legendary fates spinning and measuring the thread of man's destiny.

Pops of color brighten our day.

By the time we left the park we were in need of sustenance.  A scone with clotted cream and jam … that’s what I wanted.  After looking at a number of establishments on the perimeter of the park, we ended up at Caffé Nero … not exactly what I was looking for, but it would do.  Despite the light chill, we sat at a table on the sidewalk to sip our hot beverages and nibble on our scones.

Properly sated, we then continued our meanderings.  We were close to Trinity College and considered going there next, but weren’t in the mood to deal with the crowds.  Going to the Library there to see the Book of Kells was out of the question as well … the queue was way too long and we didn’t have advance-purchase tickets to skip the line.  So, on we walked, stopping here and there where something caught our eye … stained glass windows in a small neighborhood church, colorful sidewalk murals decorating a construction barrier.

Our next stop was St Patrick’s Cathedral — the National Cathedral of the Church of Ireland (admission €6pp) … so named for its proximity to a well that is said to have been used by St Patrick to baptize converts to Christianity and a small church that was built to mark the site.  Founded in 1191, the current church, which dates back to 1220, has survived wars and revolutions.  Jonathan Swift — best known as the author of Gulliver’s Travels — is buried under the cathedral floor … a panel marks the location.  The beautiful tile floors and the exquisite stained glass windows were the primary focus of my attention.  We also enjoyed the choir practice while we were there.  I probably would have spent more time here, but while I was feasting my eyes, Mui was making plans for lunch with the Gelmans and the Sweets who were also visiting the cathedral.  So, right around 1:00p we all left to seek out some pub grub.

Our chosen pub — White Friars — could not accommodate us without a reservation, but the proprietor suggested we try Bowlane … their sister pub next door.  Turns out this establishment doesn’t serve lunch … just brunch and dinner.  Though the menu was limited, we each managed to find something to eat.  Mui got tiger prawns over couscous; I got pancakes with bacon … layered between the cakes … interesting and quite tasty.  My non-alcoholic drink was something called “No TV and No Beer Makes Homer …” and consisted of honey, lavender, lemon, soda, and mint … think a virgin mojito.

After lunch, the Gelmans headed off to the Guinness Storehouse … we went to Christ Church Cathedral with the Sweets.  By this time the sky had turned blue, the sun was out, and the day had warmed up.  This brought out the locals — especially the young and the young at heart.  We arrived at the church to find people picnicking and lazing about on the grass … a scene I had never seen on church grounds before.

Christ Church Cathedral is one of the city’s two medieval cathedrals.

We paid the admission (€5pp) and went inside to explore the city’s second Medieval cathedral … this one starting out as a wooden church in 1038.  Construction of the current building began in 1172 … it was last restored in the late 19th century.  In addition to the ornate decorations, beautiful stained glass windows, and colorful tile floors, a highlight of our visit here was the crypt where I had read I should look out for The Cat and the Rat” … the mummified remains of two critters that were trapped in an organ pipe in the 1860s … made famous by James Joyce’s words in Finnegan’s Wake — “…as stuck as that cat to that mouse in that tube of the Christ Church organ.”  Another highlight — an unexpected one at that — was a choir of young people singing in the sanctuary … for some reason I think they were from New Mexico, but don’t quote me on that.

The infamous cat and the rat.

It was 3:00p when we left Christ Church Cathedral and hoofed it back to the shuttle stop at Merrion Square.  We arrived just in time to see the back end of the 4:30p shuttle driving away.  No worries … there was one more at 5:00p.  Plenty of fellow-passengers showed up to keep us company while we were waiting to take the last bus back to the ship.

We had more than enough time for dinner at the Terrace Café before sailaway, which was scheduled for 7:00p.  It was actually another 45 minutes after that when Insignia cast off her lines.  We were tugged out of our berth, maneuvered into the main channel, and then set free to travel under our own steam … with a high-wind warning ringing in our ears for tonight once we were in open waters.

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